My tower is bigger than your tower. Apparently status symbols have been with us for centuries. Today it might be your Lana Marks handbag or your Mercedes AMG Black, but in medieval Germany your status was determined by the height of your tower. At one time Regensburg contained many towers, today over 20 towers still remain. The large medieval city center, with over 1300 original structures, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site Here merchants once flaunted their wealth by building the largest possible tower. The towers had a basis in practical use as storage for merchandise. However many of these towers’ upper floors were empty, having never been used except for display of wealth. Even today many towers still remain unfinished inside. Originally a Roman city, one city gate remains from 179AD, the Porta Praetoria. To put that into perspective, and it’s an astonishing number, the gate is 1835 years old. The stones were installed without mortar, and are held together by a lintel stone. Now called the Watergate, the Roman ruins are a living reminder of the city’s history. Always a prosperous town, Regensburg’s wealth also came from salt. It’s hard to understand today how important salt was. Salt mining goes back over six thousand years. Even the word “salary” derives from salt. Today Regensburg’s historic salt storage building is a visitor’s center. Constructed from massive German oak timbers several feet across, the interior now displays photos of the city during World War II. Fortunately the Messerschmitt plant was located outside of the city, so when it was bombed, much the center of the city was spared. The old stone bridge, adjacent to the salt storage building, was constructed in 1200. This bridge once used by knights crossing the Danube making their way to the Holy Land and is still in use today. On display in many of the shop windows, the classic German dirndl skirt is making resurgence. Shoppers here can find plenty of stores to explore. Mouthwatering displays of chocolates tempt browsers to sample some of the multitude of varieties. Foodies will love trying the authentic sausage at Jacobs. This factory and restaurant has been in operation, in the same spot since 1135. Located by the river, sit and savor the smoky sausage, served with authentic German sauerkraut. Accompanied by mouthwatering fresh baked Rye rolls, homemade sweet spicy mustard, and the locally produced black beer this meal will have you coming back for more. The history in this town is astonishing. Germany may have had the first food laws, describing penalties for what could and could not be put in sausages. Although, Otto Von Bismarck said, “If you like laws and sausages, you should never watch either one being made.” The Regensburg Cathedral, Dom St Peter, contains, amazing stained glass dating back to the Middle Ages. A Renaissance tower built in 1200. Still remains. Originally scheduled for removal upon completion of the gothic cathedral, unfortunately the cathedral leans on tower. Still visible today, at the time it was used to store grain. More information can be found at http://www.sacred-destinations.com/germany/regensburg-cathedral For endless shopping, delicious food, beautiful stained glass, and a look back at status symbols from the past, Regensburg has plenty to offer.
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With so much to see and do in Rome, it is hard to imagine taking the time to get beyond the city. For this charmer however, its well worth squeezing in a few hours away. Villa d’Este in Tivoli, about 18 miles from Rome is the estate of a Cardinal that was exiled from Rome, after a failed bid for papacy in 1550. The fountains that it features, were at that time only powered by the rivers water pressure. To this day, most of the fountains are driven by water pressure, only the largest fountains are now powered by pumps. The estate itself features soaring ceilings, frescoed walls, and beautiful sculptures. Be sure to check the times that the largest fountain goes off, as it is a treat to watch. To get there Take the metro line B to Ponte Mommolo, then take the local blue Cotral bus towards Tivoli. Alight at the square walk through the small town square heading up hill and to the left to the entrance. Bombed heavily during World War II, Nuremberg is one of the largest remaining walled cities; large sections of walls remain interspersed, with imposing entry towers. Even the churches suffered heavy damage. However, unlike many of its counterparts, Nuremberg was not rebuilt in the original style after the war, consequently many of the buildings are modern. The result is pockets of charming historic buildings, surrounded by a more modern city. With a population of 500,000, it is less a tourist destination, and more a thriving community World War II history buffs will have much to discover. Located just outside the city lies the ruins of the Nazi Party Rally Grounds. Spend a day exploring the exhibits, and imagine what it would have been like at its peak. Visit the Memorium Nuremberg Trials. This museum, opened in 2010, is located in the venue the Nazi trails took place. Visit the actual courtroom, when court is not in session. Shopping is plentiful. In the main square a tempting produce market sets up daily. Ogle the beautiful flowers, fresh fruits and vegetables, with local mushrooms the size of your hand. The smell of homemade breads and pastry, and sizzling sausages tempt passersby to indulge in a treat. Home of the largest Christmas Market, by early November the feel of the holidays are in the air. Rustic booths, draped with glowing lights, and bedecked with carnival like lighted signs proclaim their wares line. The streets are chock full of tempting treats. Choose from lebkucken, German gingerbread, German mulled wine, savory local sausages, or steamy crepes served with your choice of toppings. My personal favorite is banana with Nutellla, a mouthwatering chocolate hazelnut spread. www.christkindlesmarkt.de In the historic center, the main square steals the show. The face of the Church of Our Lady while still in the traditional Gothic style, houses a giant mechanical clock. Like a traditional German coo coo clock, every day at noon the prince electors circle the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, minstrels lift their horns and ring their bells, while the clock booms out the time. From the square the historic gothic churches of St. Lorenz and St. Sebald, and the Old Town are all within an easy stroll. The highlight of the main square is the Schoner Bunnen, or beautiful fountain. Surrounded by wrought iron grillwork, legend has it if you turn the gold ring three times your wish will come true. The current fountain was erected here around 1385, while remnants of the original sandstone fountain can be seen at the German National Museum. “The fountain soars 63 feet upward and features 40 sculptured figures which reflect the world-view of the Holy Roman Empire: the pool is decorated with figures representing philosophy and the seven liberal arts and above them are the four Evangelists and the four Church Fathers. In the middle are the Seven Electors and Nine Worthies and above them Moses and Seven Prophets.” www.travelsignposts.com Towering above the city is the Kaiserburg, or Imperial Castle. An occasional residence of the Emperors of the Holy Roman Empire between 1050 and 1571, much of the palace was destroyed during the war. It was rebuilt not back to its previous Gothic state, but to an ideal intended to resemble the original construction. A thriving metropolis, history buffs, and holiday shoppers, will enjoy all that Nuremburg has to offer.
Revisit the Middle Ages in Miltenberg, Germany Miltenberg lies on the left bank of the river Main on a narrow strip of land between two mountain ranges. Always a small community, even today the population is only 9500 residents. The allure of this charming city is in her authenticity, and compact size Towering on the hill above the town, the Mildenberg Castle was constructed around 1200. By 1379 both city gates had been constructed, and a town fully established. Bordered by the Main Gate, and the Wurzburg Gate the medieval core runs almost two miles from tower to tower. Unlike so many other German towns, no wall surrounds this community due to the proximity of the protective mountain ranges. Nestled in the Olden Wald forest, this town is picture perfect. Miltenbergs’ influence grew due to the strategic location at a narrow place in the river. Originally a part of the Electoral Mainz, its coat of arms, which resembles a wheel, is still visible on some of the buildings. A policy allowing residents free use of timber from the community owned forest encouraged construction from the 15th through the 17th centuries. A mix of architectural styles on the winding thoroughfare, timber and plaster construction provides uniformity. Due to trade, the wealth of the city grew. However, “prosperity ended abruptly in the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), when the area was devastated and depopulated.”(Travel Sign Posts) Later annexed by Bavaria in 1816, the actual district of Miltenberg was not established until 1972. The Hotel Zum Riesen is located here, said to be one of Germanys oldest inns, restored, it reopened in 2001 as the Brauhaus Faust. Wander through all of the shops; many geared to the locals not the tourists. A butcher’s window displays all sorts of sausages and “wursts” both fresh and canned. Expect to find many unusual kinds of sausage, with everything from blood sausage to white sausage. Served with a German Beer, and a soft pretzel, what could be more traditional? Stop at a local bakery for the most amazing apple strudel. One bite of this melt in your mouth delicacy and you will be lined up for more. A charming fountain, with an unusual sandstone carving was once used for water, stands in the main square. Adjacent, the St Lawrence’s Chapel, a Renaissance church is also constructed of sandstone. The source of “Heunensäulen” or sandstone columns intended for use in the Mainz Cathedral. Unused, one was returned to the city in 1975 to commemorate the cathedrals 1000th anniversary and stands in the cathedral square. Unlike so many other towns, Mildenberg is authentic. Not suffering either fire, or war damage. In addition the devastation of the 30-year war actually contributed to the preservation of this medieval gem. Whether for the Christmas market, as an excursion on a river boat cruise, or as a stop on the red wine trail, find the time to explore this authentic marvel.
When you are getting ready for a trip you may ask wonder, do I need a passport for a cruise? Or if I am getting married, what name do I need to put my reservations under? Here are the answers, but always check with the US passport services website, as rules do change. All citizens are currently required to have a passport when re-entering the US by air, land or sea, with a few exceptions. Those entering by land or sea can get a lower cost passport card, but it is not valid for air travel. U.S. citizens on a cruise that begins and ends in the same port, and travels to destinations in Alaska, Mexico, Canada, the Caribbean, the Bahamas or Bermuda can still travel with a drivers license and a U.S. state issued birth certificate, or certified copy; a certificate of naturalization; or a Consular report of birth abroad.
If you do need a passport, or a passport card, standard turn around time can be up to six weeks, or more depending on demand. So, what do you do if you need a Passport In a Hurry? If you are traveling in more than 3 weeks, use the US postal service overnight mail and mark it “expedite” include a self-addressed postage paid overnight air return envelope for a speedy return. If you are located near of the 25 passport offices, you can schedule an appointment, at 877-487-2778 automated 24hrs a day, or walk in. Check policies before you go, since typically your trip must be within 2 weeks. Closer still? Use a passport service. “Rush my passport” for example, charges $99 to provide your passport in 8 days, and for $299 for 4 days. Other services include: online passports, standard, 7 day, 24 hour, and sometimes if available same day service, for up to $399. Getting Married?
If you need to get a passport, do so in your maiden name, you have up to one year from the date of issue to request a free name change. After one year from the date of issue, there is a fee for name changes. Go to the passport services website and download the name change application, and mail it along with your passport for your free replacement. For the most current information visit the Passport Service website. Finally, remember that Passports must be valid for at least six months after the last day of travel. Explore Cologne, Germany, as you sail through history. One of the oldest cities in Germany, and currently the 4th largest, Cologne, has been drawing visitors since 50 A.D., when it was officially founded. As your cruise ship docks Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO world heritage site, is already visible soaring above the city skyline. From ruins uncovered after World War II, there is evidence of a Christian church in this location as early as the 4th century. The plans were drawn, and the foundation laid for the current cathedral in1248. Six hundred years later it was completed. Built in sections so that the cathedral could be used, by 1560 about 90% of the total planned building had a roof, including temporary roofs over the nave and transept. In 1842, with growing romantic enthusiasm for the middle ages coupled with the financial support of the Prussian Court after a gap of almost 300 years construction resumed on the transept portion of the cathedral. Completed by 1880, for four years it had the distinction of being the world’s tallest building. Inside the cathedral, enshrined in an elaborately carved ornamental gold tomb are the purported remains of the Three Wise Men, The centerpiece of this amazing cathedral, the relics were given to the Archbishop of Cologne in 1164 by the Holy Roman Emperor Fredrick Barbarossa. Built in both the Gothic and neo gothic styles, this gem attracts over 20,000 visitors a year. Free to visit, summer hours are from 6am until 10pm. A separate admission applies for the treasury, full of golden icons from the churches history, and the tower, with its bird’s eye view of the city. Guided tours are available 10am to 2:30 Monday through Saturday in English for 7 euro. http://www.colognecathedral.net/History-of-Cologne-Cathedral.html Outside the cathedral, melodies ring out from street performers and various characters, some spray-painted head to toe, others in authentic period costumes, beckon you over to take photos with them, for a fee. During the war over 72% of the city was destroyed, reducing the historic section to rubble. Rebuilt in the original style, a stroll along the cobblestone streets, through the old town, reveals many charming multi-hued buildings. Most were constructed with storage spaces above and the lower floors were devoted to shops. Today many of the buildings have been converted into pubs, restaurants and shops. Numbers prominently displayed on the buildings face indicate the year of construction and not the address. Addresses historically featured images of the owner’s occupation, rather than numbers. Today you can still see a whale prominently displayed, on the side of the building where a whaler once lived. Famous for Koelnischwasser, or eau de Cologne, fragrance has been produced here since 1709. Used liberally by Napoleon, in a time when bathing was uncommon, you can take home a bottle as a souvenir Primarily a modern city, Cologne has a long and storied past. The Cologne Cathedral, while struck 14 times during Allied bombing, was one of the one of few buildings left standing after World War II. And was completely reconstructed by 1965. Perfect for a short stop on a relaxing river cruise, enjoy the modern vibe of this historic marvel.
Time stands still in Bamberg. Pinch yourself; it’s hard to remember this is the 21st century. Find yourself in the center of this medieval town in the north of Bavaria, and you will believe that time has stood still. A UNESCO world heritage site; since the 1950s Bamberg has undergone a continuous program of restoration of its historic properties. Amazingly around 93% of the original buildings remain. What makes Bamberg unique according to UNESCO is that “it covers the three centres of settlement: The Bergstadt, with the cathedral, the former Prince-Bishop's Residence, the Parish Church of Our Lady and the former vintners' settlement; the Inselstadt, between the two-arms of the Regnitz River, which was founded in the 12th century with a market; and the Theuerstadt, a late medieval area of market gardens with scattered houses and large open spaces, which has retained this character to the present day.” Start your exploration at the unusual town hall. Created when wood beams were driven into the riverbed for the foundation, it is part of a bridge on the Regenitz River. To this day the building seems to perch precariously on edge, ready to drop in at any time. Once completely encased in plaster, one section fell off when a bridge nearby was bombed during World War II, and has remained naked. The remainder whimsically painted, includes a plaster leg that sticks out of an imaginary hole at the base of the building Along the confluence of Regenitz and Acmy Rivers many buildings abut the water. Called little Venice, while the buildings are not as grand as those in Venice, they are quintessentially German. Boats moored nearby bob in the current and rowboats are tied up at tiny docks behind wood timber and plaster houses. Many original structures were covered over with plaster or stone to prevent fire. Restorations reveal the original timber and stucco buildings hidden behind the facades. Wander the maze of streets, and revel in the massive size of this historic community Climb the steep steps to the Prince Bishop’s Palace and the massive Church of Our Lady. Home to the most northerly buried pope, he died after a very short time in office and under mysterious circumstances, likely poisoned. He died in Rome and was brought to Bamberg at a time when such distant burials were unheard of. In the basilica you can view the carved likenesses on the massive tomb of King Henry of Germany and Canonized Queen Cunigunde who advanced cause of Christianity in Germany. After all the sightseeing a snack is in order. Stop at one of the amazing pastry shops that serve dessert to perfection. Windows are chock-full of tantalizing dessert selections, macaroons, tarts, cookies, chocolates, and elaborately decorated cakes. Your order comes wrapped like a present in decorative paper and is graciously presented. A tantalizing flavor, a lightly sweet, flaky pate sucree crust is covered with a perfectly proportioned layer of honey nougat, then smothered with a layer of roasted hazelnuts, that glisten with a light sugar glaze. Almost too beautiful to eat, and yet consumed instantly. Local resident Willy Messerschmitt designed the M17 sports plane in1925. He won many competitions with this plane, allowing him to build the first Messerschmitt factory. Thankfully for Bamberg he located the Messerschmitt plane factory in nearby Regensburg preventing excessive damage during the war. The result is nothing short of amazing; with so many authentic historic buildings you could easily forget what century you are in.
Soak up the scenery in Rudesheim, Germany and the castle district. A visit to Rudesheim is your next stop on a relaxing river cruise. It lies at the foot of the Niederwald Mountains on the Rhine’s east bank, near the Lorelei Mountains. The town belongs to the Frankfurt Rhine Main Region and is one of Germany’s biggest tourist attractions. Only Cologne Cathedral draws more tourists. With an average of 300,000 visitors a year, try exploring this gem in the spring or fall when the charming hamlet is less crowded. Rudesheim is a picture perfect community, with tiny winding streets and ample shopping opportunities. Winter brings the Rudesheim Christmas market. Home of Europe’s biggest nativity scene, ogle life sized figures on display on the market square. If you need a little Christmas off-season, browse through Katie Wolfhard’s Christmas shop. Soar in a chairlift up to the Niederwald statue. Built in 1883, the statue commemorates Germanys unification 12 years prior. Your reward is a spectacular bird’s eye view of the town and the distant Rhine with its slopping hills awash in vineyards. You have to hear, and see Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Instrument Museum. Tour one of the world’s biggest collections of self-playing musical instruments. Enormous calliope’s look like they came straight from the circus. Their figurines pivot, instruments magically play themselves, and carousels spin, still delivering spellbinding magic. In the over 350 exhibits, melodies tinkle from the ivories, drums boom, and violins spin to provide a melodic glimpse into the musical past. Guided tours are available in 9 languages and the museum tour with music takes approx. 45 minutes. Fresh and hot, try a baumstreizel, the local dessert. Resembling a paint roller, this hollow tube shaped pastry is made from traditional yeast dough. Rolled around a wooden roller, the dough is rotated slowly over a heat source, and brushed with butter as it cooks. It is finished with another brush of butter and rolled in nuts, cinnamon, chocolate or sprinkles. Yum. Sample the local drink Rudesheim Coffee. Served in a specially made coffee set this concoction is a mix of locally Brandy, coffee whipped cream and chocolate shavings. It will definitely warm you up on a cold winter’s day. Known for quality Riesling grapes, this area accounts for 2.5% of Germanys wine production, with over 80,000 acres in cultivation. Another locally produced item, Asbach Uralt Brandy, is featured prominently in Rudesheim coffee. As you depart from Rusedheim and slowly cruise toward Cologne castles dot the landscape. This area is a UNESCO world heritage site, and part of the Rheine Middle region. On towering hills along the river fifteen castles perch along the bluffs.
Don't miss the beautiful island of Virgin Gorda. When you dock in Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands, it is only a short walk from the cruise ship pier to the local ferry pier. A shuttle, which you can combine with the cost of the ferry, will deliver you from the ferry pier to The Baths National Park. After you pay your admission you will climb down the trail to the beach. You will discover a very unusual beach, strewn with huge boulders, unlike any other beach in the caribbean. The water is beautiful and blue. There are coral formations growing on the rocks close to shore, and there is a cave under the rocks that leads from one beach to the next, climbing through the huge boulders is an exciting adventure.
Choosing an Alaska cruise is difficult, but the choices between glaciers can complicate things even more. Also keep in mind that a passport is required for the cruises leaving from Vancouver, or an Alaska to Vancouver, but not those leaving from Seattle. A roundtrip Seattle, or Vancouver inside passage cruise will go to either Tracy’s Arm, or Glacier Bay. Several cruise lines go to Glacier Bay & that includes Holland America and Princess, however not all ships of either line go here. Only 2 large ships per day are allowed in to the bay. At Glacier Bay a ranger will get on the ship & give you some narration. Ships can typically only cruise to the middle of the bay, and not close to the glaciers. If you do choose a Glacier Bay cruise get a port side balcony cabin, as more glaciers are on this side of the ship. Link to Glacier Bay National Park Service website The glaciers at Tracy’s Arm are reached after a 30 mile cruise up the fjord. These glaciers are known as Sawyer Glacier & South Sawyer Glacier. Because of ice claved off the glaciers you can not always get large ships close to them. You can, however reach these as a small boat excursion from Juneau. In comparison, while not on the scale of Glacier Bay, at Tracys Arm Fjord you are surrounded by cliffs towering all around you, seeing wildlife, waterfalls, as well as glaciers as you cruise along. Both NCL and Celebrity go to Tracy’s Arm. In order to get to Hubbard Glacier or College Fjord …… you need to do a one way cruise either to or from Seward or Ankorage. Hubbard Glacier is 76 miles long, and 25% larger than the state of Rhode Island. It is a very actively calving (shedding large chunks of ice into the water) and is a popular cruise destination. College Fjord Glaciers, are named after colleges, and are located within the Prince William Sound. Not accessible by cruise ship is Portage Glacier. This glacier is located 50 miles south of Anchorage, and 5 miles off Seward Highway. It is a good stop for cruise passengers heading to Seward or Whittier. there are several tours available that go to this glacier for those not wishing to rent a car.
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Linda Carter
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